Green Papaya North Vietnamese Restaurant
CitySearch - Brisbane Review
Fiona Davies, November 2005
Lien Yeomans is an ambassador for the cuisine of Vietnam. Her translations of classic Vietnamese dishes have made this restaurant a Brisbane institution.
Fragrant, herbaceous and built around subtle flavours and contrasting textures, Vietnamese food has a character all of its own. At Green Papaya, it's French-influenced, Northern Vietnamese fare that's at the heart of the menu, and chef Lien Yeomans consistently hits the mark with her creative interpretations of traditional dishes. It's a spacious and bright restaurant, simple yet stylish. The vibe remains completely unpretentious despite its recognition as a Brisbane institution.
The Hanoi style bouillabaisse has fans of the genuine Marseille article raving. Yeomans substitutes bay leaves for the unique flavour of lemon myrtle and imbues the broth with notes of lemongrass, galangal and coriander. Then there's the Green Papaya version of cha ca la vong (aromatic, turmeric-marinated fish), or the crispy spring rolls stuffed with crabmeat and whole prawns. Northern Vietnamese food is famed for its generous use of crisp fresh vegetables, and Green Papaya offers a great selection for vegos and health-conscious eaters; try the shredded green papaya salad or tofu pocket with steamed mung bean, lotus seed, leek and spicy tomato sauce. Black rice pudding makes a pleasant finish to the meal, soaked in sweet coconut milk and served with fresh fruit and ice cream.
Soorley on Sunday
The Sunday Mail
July 27, 2003
A Woman of Real Charm
Whenever you meet her, the charm, sophistication and eloquence of Lien Yeomans are always impressive. This quietly spoken Vietnamese woman owns one of Brisbanes best restaurants, The Green Papaya, in East Brisbane.
One of 11 children, Lien came to Australia in 1962 under the Colombo Plan. She studied at the University of NSW and became a Librarian.
In her restaurant, Lien serves traditional North Vietnamese food that she learnt to cook at home. She believes that we must preserve the unique character and culture of Brisbane and is certainly a great contributor to our culture.
On Sundays she has cooking classes and while you are there you might want to discuss music, architecture, books, politics or culture with this amazing woman.
Incidentally, her son is Quan from the Brisbane band Regurgitator.
Jim Soorley
Qantas
The Australian Way
June 2003
p108
Restaurant Reviews
Green Papaya North Vietnamese Restaurant
With her delicate touch and master's ability to blend spices and marry ingredients, owner/chef Lien Yeomans specialises in the cuisine of her native Vietnam, creating dishes that are eclectic but thoroughly delicious. The aromas hit you as soon as you walk through the door, instantly whetting the appetite. Yeomans' rich braised cuts of beef and pork - infused with ginger, anise and wine - are done especially well, but make sure you don't miss her traditional rice paper rolls of crab and prawn, spiked with hot mint and chillies. The menu features a variety of traditional dishes as well as modern interpretations. A limited wine list is available. Service is prompt, friendly and knowledgeable.
Well Done
Courier Mail May 3, 2003
Green Papaya, Brisbane
Owner Lien Yeomans has been credited with being the best Vietnamese chef in town as her legion of faithful patrons will attest.
Lien originally cooked from a busy and well hidden site in Toowong.
In 1998 she moved to East Brisbane to a renovated shop which seats 120 guests in a room filled with tradional artworks and Asian crafts.
The menu is written in Vietnamese and English with clear and consice descriptions.
Lien is prepared to pass on her culinary secrets as she conducts Sunday cooking workshops on the last Sunday of each month from 10am to 4pm. She is a charming hostess and a brilliant chef.
Lien's Hanoi style Bouillabaisse
New dish added to regular menu for every Friday at Green Papaya
A review from a food lover:
True lovers of bouillabaisse all know that you have to go to Marseilles to savour the True Thing. Frenchmen however say that its impossible to find even in Marseilles. I suggest trying down the coast in the picturesque Port of Saint Raphael, or alternatively The Gabba where Lien has turned her hand to this mystical Beast of a dish and won hands down. As we can't lay our hands on the Mediterranean Fruits de mer, the rascasse and the other fish, the true Chef knows she has to turn to her knowledge and experience with local ingredients so in making the broth which is the heart and soul of the dish.
Lien has adapted the traditional mix by adding lemon myrtle instead of bay leaves, but included thyme and fennel, leek and Pernod but then segued in with her oriental notes of galangal lemongrass and coriander to produce a genuinely new and winning melody of full flavours you have to savour to believe. To coin a phrase: the show isn't over until the dragon lady has sung!
Its that goooooooooooooooood! Trust me.
